Surfing #29

As I stated in my other journals there are many factors that cause waves to form. Such as the winds, different depths of the ocean floor and the moon. But I did not know man could make a wave almost like mother nature could. I was just surfing the internet and I came across some websites and videos about tanker surfing. I had no clue what this was so I continued researching about this so called tanker surfing. Tanker surfing is simply a tanker ship which generated 5 foot waves that just go on for miles and miles. These waves go on for so long surfers get tired riding them and have to stop. This will be one of my long term goals to go tanker surfing.

Surfing #28

You may wonder why surfers never fall of these smooth slippery boards. The best thing you can put on your board is the classic surf wax in my opinion. When i first got my 6'4 Ron John Surf board i waxed it up and then i was ready for the water. Now my wax is getting dirty and losing grip. So I took it off with a wax comb the washed off all of the residue. Then I had a perfectly clean and smooth surface on my board. So i took a ride up to Sawgrass mills mall and went to Ron John and reuped on some more classic wax. Once I arrive back at my house I waxed up my board and was ready for the beach. Other surfers may prefer to use traction pads instead of wax. But i like to keep it classic with classic wax. :D

Surfing #27

On monday these was no surf so I could not go to the beach and surf. Bummer.. But anyways I went to the pool to swim a couple laps. When you are paddling out in the water you can get extremely tired and then you wont have enough energy to paddle into a wave. So swimming laps at the local YMCA helps out tremendously. So then swimming laps will enable me to catch more waves while I surf enabling me to have a better time while I surf. I Also went to the gym to do some cardio and lifted some weights for my back, chest, biceps and triceps.

Surfing #26

This past few weeks Rip Curl hosted and sponsored a surf competition in Australia. My mentor informed me of this and I surly tuned in to watch some of this competition. Since the contest was all the way in Australia I started to watch these amazing surfers around 10 P.M. My favorite surfer Kelly Slater started out great and destroyed some of these waves that came through. Wow I wish Florida got waves like that, (If we did I'd be a pro surfer by now) these waves looked like walls of glass in the water. They just started to barrel ever so perfectly. They were head high and the best word to describe them is "Perfection" As I watched this competition I tried to pick up and see what techniques these surfers used. I cant wait till the next time I go and surf so i can try these out for myself.

Surfing #25

Usually I surf at beaches close to town such as Ft. Lauderdale, Deerfield beach or Dania beach. The waves for florida are the best in central Florida, in places like Melbourne beach, Sebastian inlet and Fort Pierce inlet. Me and my buddy looked at the wave repot for south florida here, the waves were about three feet. Surf-able and should be fun, but we decided to look at the cameras and repot for central Florida. We looked for the report for Fort Pierce and the waves were chest high and very clean. So me and my buddy decided to take a mini surf trip 2 hours up the coast to Fort Pierce. When I was at the beach some of these kids were just studs at surfing due to the fact they get consistent waves throughout the year. Hopefully someday I will be able to shred like those kids.

Surfing #24

This week has been an interesting surfing week. I have been looking to get a board for the west coast of florida. In the west coast there is smaller and less clean waves than here in the East coast. So a bigger board will enable me to catch those waves there on the east coast. Also it will help me learn and progress as a surfer. Even when the waves are small here in our backyard this board will allow me to go and catch those waves.

Surfing #23

I have been talking about me surfing adventures throughout all of my journals. But i have never really talked about how to surf. First you need a board the longer the board the easier it is to catch a wave and surf. So for beginners i recommend any board at least 7 -10 feet. Once you get your board you need to get surfing wax and spread over 3/4 of your board. Next once your at the beach you need to attach your leash to your ankle (left ankle if goofy footed or right ankle if regular.) Once you have everything attached you are ready for the water. Now you need to walk out in the water as far as you can with your board. Then once you cant stand jump on your board and start paddling. Your going to have to duck dive under the waves. Once you are out over the break you have to play the waiting game. Once you see the perfect wave coming you have to paddle hard as you can like you never have before. You will feel the wave picks up the back of the board now you are caught in the wave. You will need to pop up on your board and then if you successfully do that you will ride down the face of the wave. Then if you want to turn left or ride you will need to simply lean your body to the desired way you want to go. Then ride the wave until you stop moving then jump off your board and do it all again. Now you know the basics on how to surf a wave.

Surfing #22

I have talked to several different surfers and each of them talk in a surfing language. When there's someone boggy boarding the surfers will call them boggers. When a surfer is surfing a waves and someone yells "nice cut back!" the surfer just performed a 180 degree turn on the wave. One the most famous phrases is most likely "hang 10". This is actually a trick performed when riding a wave, It is when you have all 10 toes on nose of the board, one of the most difficult tricks in surfing. The last term used to describe me is called a hodad this terms means a beginner surfer. Now you know some of the surfing phrases!

Surfing #21

It's been a busy couple days so far this week. I have not been able to go surf because Florida doesn't want to produce waves anymore. But i have been busy researching one of the worlds best surfers Kelly Slater. Kelly Slater is an America Professional surfer and has won the World title in surfing 10 times! He is like the Tiger Woods of surfing. Slater is a Florida native growing up in Coco Beach. Slater can do it all he has a handicap of +2 and 46 WCT wins. (most all time)

Surfing #20

Volleyball has been keeping me busier than I could imagine. But the sport has not stopped my research. I learned about reef breaks a little bit. These breaks could be amazing or just a disaster waiting to happen. Reef breaks cause the biggest and cleanest waves. If the reefs are far below the ocean surface this is ideal for surfing. But if the reef is shallow it is extremely dangerous and life threatening because these reefs are razor sharp and could cut you up and your can hit your head on the reef and become unconscience or many other things. This is why I surf on a Sand bar break. :D

Surfing #19

Injuries might just be my thing this year. I just healed from my strained hip flexor. Now I have a calf strain so these injuries won't stop haunting me. As far as surfing goes I have been trying to go out but the water has been flat. Now I recently saw some big wave surfers surfing 60 feet waves! It was absolutely insane these men have courage like no other. One of the surfers on the show went to France when the waves were 28 feet high! And he complained that the waves were to small.

Surfing #18

This week there was waves on monday about 3 to 4 feet. But I had a volleyball game scheduled for that monday. So I had to miss out on this surfing adventure. The game started at 4:30 and around 2:30 I received a text message that the game was canceled. Basically all along I could have went surfing, that mad me mad! We had the game yesterday and won so i guess that was a plus.