Surfing #23

I have been talking about me surfing adventures throughout all of my journals. But i have never really talked about how to surf. First you need a board the longer the board the easier it is to catch a wave and surf. So for beginners i recommend any board at least 7 -10 feet. Once you get your board you need to get surfing wax and spread over 3/4 of your board. Next once your at the beach you need to attach your leash to your ankle (left ankle if goofy footed or right ankle if regular.) Once you have everything attached you are ready for the water. Now you need to walk out in the water as far as you can with your board. Then once you cant stand jump on your board and start paddling. Your going to have to duck dive under the waves. Once you are out over the break you have to play the waiting game. Once you see the perfect wave coming you have to paddle hard as you can like you never have before. You will feel the wave picks up the back of the board now you are caught in the wave. You will need to pop up on your board and then if you successfully do that you will ride down the face of the wave. Then if you want to turn left or ride you will need to simply lean your body to the desired way you want to go. Then ride the wave until you stop moving then jump off your board and do it all again. Now you know the basics on how to surf a wave.